THIS IS MY METHOD FOR
1. Put all foam parts together and all carbon rods, grill stocks inside for
strength. Use the assembly method that suits you. Slow curing glue and needles
OR foam safe CA with accelerator.
2. When done use a quite rough sandpaper and CAREFULLY sand the worst edges (if
3. Add light-filler where it needs to be – if needed.
4. Sand the filler away, carefully.
Now you should have a model that is without sharp edges between the sections /
parts. You are also pleased with the surface.
1. Mix around 50% white wooden glue for outdoor use and finger warm water in a
plastic can. Cut about 10x10 cm (4x4 inches) square parts of THIN brown paper.
Cut more than 20 sheets. With a brush, add a little of the fluid on the chosen
part of the plane. I usually start from the rear. Put one sheet on the spot of
choice and use the brush, with more fluid, not much, to make it sit there. You
will soon learn how to do this. If not pleased, take a new sheet. Cover the
whole model. Sometimes you need smaller sheets, air intakes, nose etc. The
sheets shall overlap each other. Not much, perhaps 1 cm or so. This adds
strength. Brown paper is as strong as thin glass fiber. You might find it in a
flower shop. If you need more strength, perhaps where the wing meets the
fuselage or where the fin meets the fuselage. Add one more layer between those
2. Let the model dry for about 24 hours. You will be impressed how light it is
when the water has dried.
3. Check that no warps have occurred. If done right, no warps will occur.
4. With a brush, add water based polyurethane floor varnish. Use quite a lot.
Even on places you have not covered. The reason for this is the next step.
5. I use spray filler, not water based. This eats foam. For this reason you must
use the varnish as said under point number 4. Caution! Test if the varnish you
use can handle the spray filler before trying on the model.
6. A THIN layer of spray filler is added.
7. Another THIN layer is added.
8. Now you can add a little more filler. Please check all the time that it not
is coming in contact with the foam.
9. Sand the filler with sandpaper and water.
10. Add more filler if needed.
11. Now you should have a good looing model with a nice and clean surface.
12. Add one layer of the varnish.
1. For the final color of choice paint the model with first layer of color. If a
silver/aluminum painted model. Use black water based color first. Otherwise grey
or white might be the best choice. Add the color with a roller and a brush.
2. When the model is dry, add the final color.
3. Make panel lines with a pen or airbrush.
4. When pleased with weathering, if you want that, make decals with an ordinary
5. Add decals with an office kind of glue stick.
6. Add about 2-3 layers of varnish.
DONE! Now you have a light, good looking, cheap to build model. It looks as good
as those glass fiber covered models.
IMPORTANT: Take the time needed in the filler sanding process. You can never
repair a hasty done work.
Magnus Müller, Sweden.